Yesterday at Hueco Tanks the weather was HOT.. Until the wind started to pick up and save the day. It was great having the wind and temp drop a little so the friction on the rock was a little better than the past days. Fingers were almost back to normal. They still have some skin missing on my pads. Martina (Jason Kehl’s girlfriend) asked me if I wanted to join her tour to the East Spur. I was planning on going to North Mountain to work on a few projects but the East Spur sounded more appealing. Especially since there was more pads and the stories I hear from Martina thoughout the day are the best. Jason also had a tour out on the East Spur with Ashima Shiraishi and Obe Carrion. Our tours were pretty close so we all got to hang out throughout the day. We headed up to the cave where Glass Roof (V9) is and set up a few pads. On one of the previous trips out to the East Spur I got to hop on the problem. Half way through there is this two and half finger pocket as you pull up out of the overhang to a crimp rail. I was pretty timid the last time I tried the problem because of that pocket. I had a small injury 5 months back on my ring finger from a pocket, so that’s why I was a little worried to pull off of it. Yesterday everything just felt right and pulled off of it just fine. I think it was just a mental block that I broke through. On my first attempt I went all the way up to the last move with no problem and my left foot slipped on the side pull. I was pretty shocked but I definitely new the problem was going down. I finally ended up getting it and was glad to have done such a cool problem. It has all these awesome little hueco’s that you go through on the roof at the start. Throw a right hand to this hueco juggy crimp or pinch. Then hug your feet on the roof and side wall that you end up coming onto to get the two finger pocket pinch. Keep hugging the wall and roof hard with your legs to throw up for the crimp rail. Come over to the side pull with your left hand then bump really hard to catch the finish. I choose to top out through this amazingly tiny hole inbetween the rocks. I almost thought I might get stuck haha. After the climbing day was done my parents ended up meeting me at the entrance to the park to surprise me. They were taking there spring break and decided to take a road trip to see there friends in AZ. It was great to have them stop by! I’ve only got to see them twice now in the last year, so it was great to catch up and have a nice dinner. Plus I got to sleep on a real bed for a night at there hotel. haha. 🙂 Definitley one of the best days I’ve had out here for sure.
Sorry I haven’t posted anything in a little while. Internet isn’t that great here and for some reason I can’t post any video’s. On March 8th I had the best climbing day of my life. I ended up sending ‘Free Willy’ on North Mountain at Hueco Tanks. It is a V10/11 climb that I saw when I first started climbing. It was always one that stuck in my head and wanted to climb it ever since. If some of you don’t know, I started climbing for the first time in April of 2012. I feel very lucky to be where I am in such a short time! I extreamly dought I could have achieved this goal if it wasn’t for my friends and family. A big thank you to everyone at Stone Moves, Iron Sports, and all my friends in Houston. Couldn’t have done it without you.
I’ve been resting for a little over two days now. My fingers got destroyed the two days after climbing Free Willy. And still arn’t looking to great! haha. I’ve also been trying to figure out my new goal for this next year. I’ll have to be honest, I still haven’t found it yet. Obviously I want to keep progressing and climbing hard, but I would like it to be more than just that. I achieved this last goal. It was to climb a legitimate V10 before my first year. As of right now though, I need to work on my American Ninja Warrior submission video so I can send it in and get ready for this next season. I’ll try to do a better job of keeping in the moment and not thinking of the obsticals ahead of me. 🙂 There is a link to my video of me doing Free Willy below if you have a few minutes to watch.
Thank you to Organic Climbing as well. Definitely check them out at organicclimbing.com !
Went back home to Houston for a few days. I had to go pick up my car and new Organic “Simple” crash pad. I was super excited to see the design on my crash pad and its awesome. (Future pics). It was also great to see all my friends and hang out with them. Couldn’t help but go crush on some plastic at Stone Moves indoor rock gym. I had some good climbing sessions to keep me ready for this next month out here at Hueco Tanks. Yes, thats right. A whole month! 🙂 I think it definitely will help spending more time out here. There will be no pressure. I have all the time I want. I think whenever you go on small or short climbing trips you have a lot of emotions coming at you all at once. And if there is a certain problem that you really want to do, you don’t have a lot of time and you usually wish you had more time. So problem solved. Stay at one place for a month. This is what North mountain looked like when I pulled up today. Beautiful. A little windy but beautiful. 1 hour later the winds have pick up and there is a dust storm and the skys are brown. Well I’ve have to get situated and grab a bite to eat. I start climbing tomorrow! Cheers
It was a good ending to the final day of climbing. I ended up meating a lot of great people on the trip. The group of us ended up making a big dinner to end the trip with a bang. Emily M. was kind enough to go out and get the supplies then start preparing the food while we finished up climbing. I must say she is a fantastic cook! We all set around the table in the Rock Ranch Barn and had some laughs while we enjoyed the food. As I didn’t want to leave, I remembered that it will be ok. I’ll be coming back here for the whole month of March. Excited for whats to come!
Been an amazing place to stay at while in Hueco Tanks. Already met a lot of great people. Plus I love waking up early in the morning and seeing the sunrise over the mountains.
Such a good climb! The crimps were pretty sharp with my fingers being a little raw from yesterday. When I went up to the right crimp just above the overhang it was super sharp torwards my sensitive finger tips. I had to mentally push through it and bare down to throw for the left hand crimp in the middle of the problem. It was a good climb to push through the pain. I was told by my friends that I’d come across this point and choose to push through the pain or not. I’m glad I could block it out of my head and climb through the problem. This was one of the problems I’ve waited to climb for a while. Heading out to the East Spir again tomorrow with Jason Kehl. Can’t wait to see a veteran climber in action. I’ll try to learn as much as I can.
So today was the first day for me to climb out at Hueco Tanks. Said to be one of the best spots to climb and many people come from around the world. I thought a 12 hour drive was long. But really I should feel privelaged.
Woke up early at the Rock Ranch and went to the barn. It was a calm morning with a little chill before the sunrise came over the mountain. Out here all electronics get zapped of energy. So I had to charge my phone, laptop, and camera. Right as the sun came over the mountain I snapped a few photos of the scenery with a guy named Jason Kehl. He’s a veteran professional climber and was a nice guy to talk with. After shooting a few photos Kevin, Austin, and I packed up then headed over to the entrance at Hueco Tanks. Our tour had got cancelled for today and pushed back to tomorrow. We still wanted to climb so we tried to be the first 20 people to get on North mountain. (They only let 15-20 extra climbers on the mountain. Its really restricted.) Luckely we got on North mountain with no problem. Had to watch a 15min manditory film about the history of Hueco Tanks and the rules. Once that was done it was game on. Time to climb. We hiked up the mountain to our first climb called Lobster Claw (V5). It was a good climb and great to warm up on. Not to terribly difficult but just enough to get the blood flowing. First climb down in the books for me at this new climbing destination. We moved on to a climb called Stegasaur (V8). It was a V8 in the books but I think it has been downgraded to a V6. It was a great climb with good movement. Once the beta was learned it wasn’t to terribly difficult. It was a 20 foot top out once I pulled the lip. Set up on top of the boulder for a little while and chilled out. It was a pretty amazing view looking out onto everything. Down climbed and moved on to the next project. It was one of the first climbs I saw on videos of Hueco Tanks. Free Willy (V10-11). An obvious line full of crimps and then a final throw to the finish. It is defintely a climb I want to have on my resume!! So when I learned the line and got a good flow through the problem up to the last left crimp all I had to do was get my hand set on this hanous left hand crimp, set my feet and throw hard to the finish. I got all the way through the problem and was catching the finish with one full pad of my fingers. Unfortunetly I couldn’t hold on. I am not bummed by any means! This was a great first day and I got a good solid start on Free Willy. I think if I’m a little more fresh out of the gate I can definitely send this problem. 🙂 After a great day of climbing we treading our selves to El Pasito and I had the best burrito! And it was only $2.99!! Its a must if you come out this way. Well I’m pretty tired sitting hear at the Rock Ranch Barn and about to get some sleep. I have to be ready for tomorrow since we have a guided tour on the East Spir Mountain. Off to bed! Night